I really don’t know how to break it to you. I’ve read about them. I’ve seen glossy photos of them. But I just couldn’t find the heavenly beaches in Bali so many visitors hope to see.
And this is after skipping Seminyak and Kuta, beach towns that, according to friends and a growing number of visitor reviews online, descended into a mess years ago, crowded with drunken holidaymakers and aggressive touts. As one Ubud local warned me, “Kuta is not Bali”.
To make matters worse, December to March is known not only as the rainy season but the “trash season”, with wind and ocean currents pushing debris and litter to Kuta’s shores (see this article from The Jakarta Post).
But after a glorious week in Ubud, I was longing for an idyllic stretch of sand and the cooling Indian Ocean for relief from the heat and humidity, and so I headed to the beaches of Sanur, Padang Padang and Jimbaran since I was already on the island. They were pleasant and worth visiting for some R&R, but I wouldn’t endure an overseas flight for them alone.
Sanur Beach
This village on the southeastern coast strikes a nice balance between local life and the mostly European and Australian tourists — a calm and relaxed alternative, I would imagine, to Seminyak or Kuta.
A popular spot for 40+ visitors, Sanur does have a certain laid back charm, even if the beach is mediocre. Expect clear waters but not turquoise, and golden sand instead of white powder. The shore (at least midway on Sanur Beach) is abrasive on the feet because of the rocks and broken shells so, instead of swimming in the ocean I stuck to the hotel pool.
But the traditional boats that line the beach, especially at sunset, make for a gorgeous setting.
You’ll find a few stray dogs roaming around too but they’re harmless.
A paved path extends from one end of the beach to the other and it’s a pleasant walk.
Near the north end beside the turtle conservation project is a small market filled with crafts and clothing, as well as a few food stalls that serve more affordable fare, mostly to locals, like skewered meat and gado gado. The roasted corn slathered with garlic butter is a messy delight, although beware of one of the sellers who tried to charge me 10,000 IDR (she quickly reduced it to 5,000 IDR when she realized I knew what they should cost). A small bowl of chicken noodle soup is 10,000 IDR.
A number of shops, restaurants and bars can be found on the main strip, Jalan Danau Tambligan, but expect to pay at least 40,000 IDR for meals here. Head to the Night Market at Jalan Danau Tamblingan and Jalan Pungutan for a more local experience and bargain prices, like nasi campur for 25,000 IDR and intriguing desserts.
I spent a whole week in Sanur at the lovely Besakih Beach Hotel. The weather wasn’t cooperative but I did manage to relax, get some work done, and socialize with both locals and other hotel guests.
Besakih Beach Hotel
For other hotels in Sanur, you can search Booking.com here.
Padang Padang Beach
Located in Uluwatu in the Bukit Peninsula (the southernmost tip of Bali), Padang Padang is a hotspot for surfers, paddle boarders and sunbathers. It was the prettiest beach of the three I visited, complete with white sand and aquamarine waters. Unfortunately, it was also somewhat dirty (but not enough to make me want to leave) and the most crowded, partly because of its modest size.
There are, however, quieter pockets on one end of the beach to the right.
Food and drink are offered by vendors, as well as sarongs. Bathrooms and shower facilities can also be used for a small fee.
A few words of caution: there are no beachfront resorts here, which means you’ll have a bit of a walk to reach Padang Padang. Mine was 15 min. from Devata Giri Homestay but the scorching sun sometimes made it feel like 30 (grabbing a taxi is an option if the heat is unbearable). Then you must descend a steep and narrow set of stairs that leads to the beach, passing a group of monkeys along the way. Watch your belongings! These rascals are a cheeky, thieving bunch. Do not let your guard down. As I cooled off in the ocean, one snuck into my bag, rummaged through it and made off with my mosquito repellent before I chased it away.
Cheeky rascal
Dining options in the area are limited. Buddha Soul is a popular restaurant that serves healthy, organic fare at North American prices.
Salad at Buddha Soul.
Update: Buddha Soul has permanently closed.
For more affordable, local cuisine, just head to a warung.
Head to a warung for affordable Balinese fare.
Search for hotels in Uluwatu at Booking.com here.
Jimbaran Beach
I stayed in Jimbaran for a few days, but only because it was on my way from Padang Padang to Denpasar. My hotel was located in town and it rained nearly the whole time, but I managed to spend one afternoon on Jimbaran Beach. The stretch of tan-coloured, not-so-smooth sand is long and the water blue-grey — a step up from Sanur Beach but not a leap.
This end of the beach was clean and filled with casual restaurants, local shops and docile, stray canines, far from the luxury resorts located on the other end.
I missed a few things here, unfortunately. Sunset, I imagine, would be stunning. I also regret not visiting Jimbaran Market and the traditional fish market, where you can have your purchased seafood grilled for lunch.
I wish I could say more about Jimbaran but my experience there was limited.
Search for hotels in Jimbaran at Booking.com here.
The Beaches in Bali are Pretty, But…
Travel to Bali for Ubud, the rich culture, spirituality, warmhearted locals, natural beauty (try heading north), even the food, but I’m not sure I would travel overseas to see its beaches. (For another take on Bali’s beaches, check out this post by my friend Amber who lived there for 18 months.)
Seasoned travellers know to steer clear of Seminyak and Kuta. But, while pretty, even Sanur, Padang Padang and Jimbaran come nowhere close to, say, Redang Island in Malaysia. Having said that, if you’re already in Ubud or southern Bali, these destinations could make a pleasant, two-day jaunt. Just keep your expectations in check.
From what I’ve read, Nusa Dua is one of Bali’s best beaches but I didn’t visit so can’t comment.
Update April, 2017: There are more beautiful beaches in Bali, according to my readers (see the comments below). You just have to venture off the beaten path to find them.
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Helen, you missed THE Dream Beach. Ganung Payung, away in the middle of nowhere in the Bukit, where like 2 or 3 folks were laying out when I got there. Way off the grid, it’s not even popular among the locals. I’ve been here 5 times and never heard of it until last week 😉 Overall I prefer Ubud too but Ganung Payung and Pandawa – pretty tourist free, both of them – rock! They’re in my neighborhood in Ungasen and again, being off the beaten path keeps them paradise type beaches, best I’ve ever seen on earth….and I’ve seen a few 🙂
Thanks for the share!
Ryan
I guess it takes a while to find these hidden gems, so thank you for telling me about them, Ryan. Too bad I didn’t get a chance to see them myself, but I’m sure you’ve just helped some of my readers who may be planning a trip there.
I agree. After living there for 18 months, there were some beaches we frequented to remind ourselves we lived on an island, and they were lovely to look at. But, I found it very hard to find beaches to actually swim in, mostly because of strong surf, rocks and coral, or trash. Nusa Dua has nice, swimmable beaches, but it is on a protected bit of property, surrounded by family resorts.
Thanks, Amber. I’m not sure if you visited these beaches too but, based on Ryan Biddulph’s comment, it seems that Ganung Payung and Pandawa are the places to go. I kind of wish I had checked out Nusa Dua too.
Interesting and weird at the same time. I have often wondered how much the way a country promotes itself in different countries can affect the perception and expectations of tourists.
In Italy, most people know that Bali is not the place to go if you’re looking for dreamy beaches, it’s the country you go for the culture, architecture and the landscape inland.
I can imagine your frustration and can’t help wondering how you could gather this kind of expectations.
Hey, Simon. I wasn’t frustrated by the experience – just bewildered, I guess. And you raise an interesting question. I’m not exactly sure what shaped my ideas about Bali, but I think it was the travel articles I read. I avoided the worst beaches and thought I’d find amazing alternatives. In the end though, I thought they were average.
I couldn’t agree more. The beaches in Bali we’re pretty mediocre. The beaches on Nusa Lembongan were much better. Check out Ubud and the interior of Bali and then hit the beaches on Nusa Lembongan.
That’s exactly what someone else told me, Eugene. And, had I known that when I was there, I absolutely would have hit Nusa Lembongan. Thanks for the tip!
Wow, that food looks amazing! Love the Beach photos too 🙂
Hi Helen.
Nice article, some great photography, and thank you for sharing. I am sorry you didn’t find the special places in Bali. You were smart to skip Kuta but Unfortunately you still went to the tourists spots and must have missed the true beauty of Bali. There are several places that are fortunately not written up in blogs and travel guides and have maintained their beauty. Sadly, I read articles like this about Bali all the time indicating the beauty, the culture, etc have vanished but that’s far from the reality. In fact we lead tours and retreats weekly where we bring our guests to deeply authentic cultural rituals and to picture postcard beaches as well. Bali Floating Leaf Eco-Luxury Retreat specializes in the non-tourist aspects of Bali. Dont take it from me, Read our TripAdvisor reviews and see why we are rated in the top 1% of hotels worldwide. I don’t mean to promote here, but I want to be sure travelers to Bali understand there is a reason why Bali is selected as the best island for vacation almost every year. There is no place in the world like it, thats why I live here, and if you know where to look, you will have consistent mind expanding experiences here. Next time, please let me know you will be visiting and I would be delighted to show you “the real Bali”.
Warmest regards,
Mikaku
Thanks for the feedback, Mikaku. Sometimes it takes a lot of research and just knowing the right people to find those hidden gems. I’ll be sure to reach out to you should I find myself back in Bali. Cheers!
Agree – the main beaches in Bali are a little disappointing (but I’m from New Zealand so I admit I’m probably a little beach snobby). Bali is promoted as an idyllic beachy paradise, when as you mentioned the real treasures are to be found in the culture and people. The Gilis (not technically a part of Bali I know – but so close!) are absolutely gorgeous though. I would definitely fly several hours to return to Gili Air and Gili Tarawangan. Nusa Dua sounds lovely too – maybe next time!
Ah, I thought about heading to the Gili Islands too but ran out of time. I also understand they’re in a malaria zone and I didn’t have the pills for it. 🙁
What exactly are the Gili’s like @piparelly? I just went to Bali in June 2015 and stayed in Seminyak. As I had a blast in Seminyak, Ubud is more me and my partners taste as its more slowed down and surrounded in a more peaceful area. So this year March of 2016 we are returning and staying in Ubud. We are splitting our trip in half and are thinking of trying Gili Air or the more quieter part of Gili T. I would love to know what the beaches are like as I have experienced beaches around Australia so I understand what you mean when you say ” beach snob “. I myself am looking for those turquoise waters, powdery sand and natural surrounding beauty.
To Helen: If you ever return please make sure to look up Suluban beach. It is hidden and about a 30 minute drive outside Seminyak. It is truly a sight to see as there are natural rocks/caves formulated all around this beach. Many surfers come here as the waves are strong but some days you can sit on the big rocks in the warm bath water of the ocean and view the crystal green surrounding water. Super clean too! And a beach bar up the steps. You must descend about over 200 steps to get there but its a fun nature trail down to the ocean! Totally worth it in my opinion 🙂
Hi Kionna. Oh, I wish I had learned about Suluban Beach while I was there! Hopefully my readers will benefit from your tip though. Thank you!
You are so welcome Helen
I am always saddened when someone comes to Bali, tries to get away from the tourists, but is unable to find the authentic Bali. Next time come stay with us at Floating Leaf Eco-Luxury Retreat and I will make sure you see the true beauty and magic that Bali has to offer.
Thank you for a great article and Good luck!
We have just returned from Bali and used a travel agent due to limited lnowledge og Bali presuming greater knowledge within this area. We were absolutely disappointed in spending 7 nights in Semenyak. The beaches were atrocious, filthy and we were unable to swim in the sea at all? We traveled all the way from South Africa and we’re so disappointed. We loved Ubud thank goodness spent 3 days in this magnificent area. We also took a day trip to Nusa Dua with a so called ‘experienced gude’ whilst enjoyed the beaches we did not enjoy the driver as he only took us to tourist areas until we refused to get out the car until he took us to a swim able beach but also only 3 stops in 9 hours?. I just wonder how one can really do in depth and trusworthy research when so little knowledge is known using travel agents and even own research? I wish I had seen your blog…..
Hi Robyn. Yes, Ubud was a definite highlight for me as well. I didn’t go to Seminyak for the exact reasons you mention. I did use a guide who took me and some friends off the beaten track (at our request) for a day and it was fantastic. I’m sorry your experience was so disappointing. I typically do a LOT of research (and not just by reading TripAdvisor reviews). I hope your next trip is more fulfilling. LOVED South Africa, by the way!
Dear Admin,
Thanks for visiting Bali and taking the time to write review about Bali. We greatly appreciate any feedback. Also needs to be underlined that Bali is famous for custom and culture and is still on hold, in addition supported with natural landscape scattered on the island, whether mountains, fields and beaches. this time in the southern Bali such as Kuta, Seminyak, Sanur and Nusa Dua in focus as the center of economy and tourism in Bali. like the article you mention unfortunately you just visited Bali in the south only. we recommend to visit Bali the northern, eastern, and Nusa Penida. we are very pleased if you need any help from us to know Bali. Needs to be noted when you are on vacation during the rainy season (October – March) several beaches in Bali a bit dirty because it is carried by the flow of water from the outside so it must be cleaned every day.
Best Regard
Gede
balibestactivities.com
Hi Gede. I appreciate the insights and your honesty about the rainy season. I did want to make it further north but, unfortunately, ran out of time.
I think you haven’t visited the right places. These beaches on your list are “main stream” and for me dissapointment. But i hired a motorbike and travelled to the south of Bukit Penninsula. Less people, more beautiful beaches. Dream Land beach is the top. I was completaly alone there, too big waves but amazing view!
Yup, I think you’re right, Kristy. How far south did you go?
Helen, I agreed with most of the comments here. You’ve only gone to the mainstream beaches and tourist spots – those three beaches are never really on my list when I go to Bali (except maybe Sanur just because it’s fairly family friendly). In the south, Nusa Dua has one of the best beaches for lounging and swimming. Pandawa beach is gorgeous. So is Dreamland and Green Bowl and Suluban. Amed beach in the North East is an amazing spot to get away from it all – glistening black sand, crystal greenish clear water, no waves, just like a lagoon. You’ve also missed the beaches in the north – just to name a few. These are postcard perfect beaches that you rarely hear about. And of course, Nusa Lembongan and Gilis.
Hi Juliana. Thanks for the info! I wish I had known about them before I went to Bali. It’s puzzling that we don’t hear more about them when the tourist hot spots are so underwhelming.