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Chimpanzee Trekking in Uganda

February 19, 2015 by Helen

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two chimpanzees grooming each other

Did you know there’s such a thing as chimpanzee trekking in Uganda? While the internet flourishes with personal accounts about gorilla trekking in Africa, the chimps receive little fanfare as they continue to live in the shadows of their giant cousins.

And that means primate-loving travellers miss out.

Chimpanzee Trekking in Uganda

In Uganda, visitors pay up to 600 USD to spend one hour in the presence of endangered mountain gorillas, the country’s most famous wild residents. Yet, for a fraction of the cost, did you know you can spend an entire day observing chimpanzees in their natural habitat?

You can track them for an hour (similar to gorilla tracking) for 150 USD, but there’s another, more intimate and immersive option. For 220 USD, the Chimpanzee Habituation Experience (CHEX) takes you on a fascinating adventure in small groups with our closest living relatives through Kibale Forest National Park from the break of dawn until 7:00pm — or until your feet say so.

It’s a unique, all-day trek and there’s no telling where the chimpanzees will lead you. Their movements are unpredictable —whether it’s uphill, downhill or on even ground, you follow the agile group, sometimes at challenging speeds through dense vegetation, for rare, up-close encounters.

chimpanzee, uganda

travel uganda, chimpanzee tracking

chimpanzee pictures, uganda tours

Kibale, a tropical forest of varying altitudes in southern Uganda, is home to 1,500 chimps, the highest concentration in Uganda, as well as the most diverse (13 species in total) and densest population of primates in East Africa. Vervet monkeys, olive baboons and red colobus monkeys are also found in these woodlands, making the forest a primate-lover’s dream. And, with 350 species of birdlife, Kibale will satisfy bird enthusiasts too.

But, like most visitors, my friend Jill and I arrived at Kibale for one reason only: to get up close and personal with a group of chimpanzees as they go about their daily lives in the wild.

The Day of the Trek

With packed lunches from our hotel, we arrived at the park, groggy-eyed, at 6:00am. We knew our group would be intimate (a maximum of four) but, on this day, it was just the two of us and our Uganda Wildlife Authority ranger, Robert. Armed with a Russian AK-47 comfortably hanging over his shoulder (facetiously referred to as his “girlfriend”), he gave us the lowdown:

  • His firearm isn’t for the chimps. Instead, rangers shoot it into the air to fend off aggressive elephants and buffalo because, in this rainforest, they’re not used to human company as they are in savannah parks.
  • Habituation, the process by which wild animals become accustomed to the presence of humans, can take up to two years for chimpanzees. Three habituated communities are found in Kibale: two for research and one for visitors.
  • Distance must be kept between us and the wildlife.
  • Loud talking, eating near the chimpanzees, littering, flash photography and monkey imitations are not allowed.

By the end of the briefing, we were eager to get moving. Who knew how long it would take to track them?

But only a few minutes passed before Robert detected signs of chimp life, high up in the canopy of trees where they nest and feed.

baby chimpanzee, kibale national park

kibale national park, chimp

It’s a typical day for this group of 20 or so great apes. They build their nests in a different location each night and, by morning, they can be seen foraging and noshing on figs. As we moved in closer, Robert warned us: beware of the falling fruit. One by one, we heard the thump of figs dropping on the forest floor around us.

But we were more concerned about getting caught in a rainfall of urine (we had already showered the night before, thank you very much). There were some close calls — enough to make us manoeuvre back to safety on the dirt road until our friends finally climb down the trees.

It took three hours for the troop to finally descend from their nocturnal nests but, from what we were told, that’s an unusually late start to their day. Tracking chimpanzees requires patience, and good things come to those who wait.

The reward? The extraordinary opportunity to observe a whole spectrum of their natural behaviours: babies as young as eight months old clumsily swinging from the tree tops, the social “Mr. Black” relaxing on the forest bed with arms folded behind his head, and an intimate grooming session (a form of primate social bonding) between two males. One of them, we were told, had lost its eye in a competitive clash with another male.

male chimp, uganda chimpanzee

chimpanzee grooming

pictures of chimpanzees, kibale forest uganda

uganda safaris

chimpanzee photos

chimpanzees grooming, things to do in uganda

And these chimpanzees are a raucous bunch. Every now and then, the stillness of the forest was abruptly broken by mayhem, an alarming, deafening cacophony of hoots and shrieks between one community and another in the distance. Robert explained they could be signs of conflict or discipline.

Quick-footed and erratic, chimpanzees can be difficult to keep up with. By mid-afternoon, we were exhausted from a hike that had increased in intensity as we raced through the forest up hills and through mud, pausing only when the chimps chose to rest.

But then we spotted something remarkable, an eerie reminder of how quickly these primates can transform themselves into savage hunters. Clinging to a tree was a male and, hanging from its mouth, its recent kill: the carcass of a small duiker (a type of antelope). It was a rare sighting even for Robert, who was equally captivated and astonished.

chimpanzee predators, kibale national park, chimp with prey

Chimpanzees are known to occasionally hunt smaller animals, including other primates — a little-known fact I never learned from the Discovery Channel.

While we observed a second chimp carrying another piece of the kill, others begged from the ground.

wild chimpanzee, chimp trekking uganda

All eyes were on the seemingly smug hunter, including those of this male who plonked himself down next to him on a tree limb, patiently lingering in the hopes of an offering.

chimps, travel uganda

At one point, in a human-like, charitable gesture, the hunter extended his arm to the face of his mooching peer, grabbing his chin between his fingers as if to say, “stick around, my friend, and just maybe I’ll throw you a scrap.” It was like observing children in a kindergarten classroom grasp the delicate art of sharing. It was, no doubt, the highlight of our adventure. Had we opted for the one-hour chimpanzee trek, I’m certain we would have missed out on these rarely seen interactions.

After 6 1/2 hours in the forest, exhausted yet thrilled, we called it a day.

And what a day it was.

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chimpanzee trekking uganda

What You Should Know:

  • The best time for chimpanzee trekking in Uganda is during the low-season months of March, April, May and November when there are fewer tourists, but keep in mind this is also the rainy season.
  • CHEX permits must be booked in advance (the earlier, the better).
  • To prevent transmitting human-borne diseases to the chimps, anyone who is ill (with the flu, for example) is not allowed in the park.
  • A day pack will be required to carry your lunch. (I recommend placing it in a plastic bag in case the food leaks through the paper bag.)
  • The weather is unpredictable, so rainproof gear, including boots with strong traction, is recommended, especially during the low/rainy season when the slopes are muddy. If needed, a heavy-duty rainproof poncho can be rented for 10,000 USh.
  • Don’t forget insect repellent!
  • The foliage can be prickly — a long-sleeved shirt and long pants will protect your skin.
  • Wear hiking gaiters or tuck your pants into your socks/boots to prevent ants from climbing up your legs.
  • With respect to photography, chimpanzees can be challenging to shoot in the dense, shaded forest. Add to that their tree-top lounging habits and swift movements, and you’ll fumble with your camera if you’re not prepared. Use a telephoto lens and increase your ISO to capture sharp images of them in action.

Planning your own trip to Kibale Forest National Park to see the chimps? You can check lodging options at Booking.com here. (Disclosure: if you click on this link and make a reservation, I’ll earn a small commission – at no cost to you. Thank you for your support!)

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Comments

  1. Bente Vold Klausen says

    February 24, 2015 at 2:38 am

    So nice to read about Uganda again, it brought back great memories. I have visited both Kibale and Bwindi National Park. I agree that gorilla tracking is very expensive but worth every penny, so was Kibale. Uganda is a great place for wildlife.

    • Helen Suk says

      February 25, 2015 at 3:23 am

      I’m glad! And, yes, gorilla tracking comes with a hefty price tag (even more so in Rwanda), but it was an experience of a lifetime for me as well, a life-long wish come true. I don’t have an iota of regret. With respect to wildlife in general, I can’t even compare my safaris in Kenya or South Africa to my experience in Uganda simply because what Uganda offers in wildlife viewing is so different and unique.

  2. James says

    February 26, 2015 at 6:02 pm

    Chimpanzees are my favorite animal in the world. I haven’t been able to see one in the wild though and it seems very affordable once you are there. I just need the money for a plane flight there!

    • Helen Suk says

      February 27, 2015 at 3:01 am

      Uganda is definitely a primate-lover’s dream! I hope you get to visit and experience it for yourself.

  3. Kerrie @ Family Food and Travel says

    March 2, 2015 at 12:38 am

    Absolutely remarkable photos. What an amazing experience for any traveller.

    • Helen Suk says

      March 9, 2015 at 11:53 am

      Thank you, Kerrie!

  4. Rich says

    March 17, 2015 at 5:49 pm

    Helen
    You have fabulous photos, and what an experience! Did you get bitten up by bugs in Uganda? did you feel safe in that region of the world? So curious. Keep writing.

    • Helen Suk says

      March 25, 2015 at 3:01 am

      I did get bitten a bit but that’s because mosquitoes, for whatever reason, love me. Spray yourself with mosquito repellent and you should be fine. I never felt unsafe. I had a private guide for most of the time, but I don’t think I would have felt unsafe had I travelled solo.

  5. daphnego says

    October 5, 2015 at 8:25 am

    Hi there! Do you mind sharing your contacts for your guide? Where did you stay?

    • Helen Suk says

      October 6, 2015 at 3:54 pm

      Sorry, I’m travelling for another couple of weeks without my laptop, where that information is stored. If you send me an email though, I can respond when I return home.

  6. Bernard says

    October 12, 2015 at 6:39 am

    Beautiful pictures Helen thanks for sharing. Do you have video of your entire trip in uganda ?

    • Helen Suk says

      October 31, 2015 at 3:38 pm

      I shot a video or two but they didn’t turn out very well because I wasn’t that close to the chimps when I shot them. 🙁

  7. Shandos says

    January 3, 2016 at 4:36 pm

    Thanks for sharing your amazing experience and photos! I’d never heard of this before, and would love to do it one day when I return to Africa.

    • Helen Suk says

      January 4, 2016 at 8:23 am

      You’re welcome, Shandos! I didn’t get close to them for as long as I did with the gorillas because they move quickly, but I did have close encounters when they groomed each other and rested.

  8. Alexis Anderson says

    January 28, 2016 at 4:59 pm

    Lovely article! Did you book directly through the parks authority or did you use a booking agency? Would love any recommendations. I’ll be there in two weeks.

    • Helen Suk says

      January 30, 2016 at 5:02 am

      Thanks, Alexis. My tour company took care of the application process for the trekking permit.

  9. Lisa says

    April 5, 2016 at 5:21 am

    Could you please send me information about the tour company you used? Sounds like a great experience! One of a lifetime dreams to go to Africa to see the chimpanzees!

    • Helen says

      April 16, 2016 at 8:28 am

      Hi Lisa. Apologies for the delayed reply! I had a great experience with African Jungle Adventures (http://www.junglesafarisuganda.com/). Hope that helps!

  10. Shannon Kircher says

    October 18, 2016 at 3:32 pm

    Wow, what an amazing chimp trekking experience you had! Ours was VERY different from this. We did two treks – one in Uganda and one in Rwanda – and on our first day with nine hours of trekking we didn’t see any. Our second day, we trekked for about 4 hours and saw just a couple of chimps, very briefly. How incredible to have had such a great experience!

  11. Liane says

    December 29, 2016 at 12:42 pm

    Hello, thanks for the great article! Can you let me know how to book the permit? I was hoping to just turn up and get one around March, but would this be risky?

    • Helen says

      January 2, 2017 at 3:35 pm

      Hi Liane. Chimpanzee treks aren’t as popular as the gorilla treks so you might be able to book the permit when you get there but I wouldn’t advise it. The tour company I used for my Uganda travels purchased mine on my behalf. If you don’t travel with a guide, I believe you can book the permit directly with the Uganda Wildlife Authority here: http://www.ugandawildlife.org/visitor-guide-2/book-your-visit. Hope this helps!

About Helen

Helen Suk

Travel writer. Photographer. Always curious. I search the world for beauty and inspiration while sharing valuable tips to help you plan your next trip.

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