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El Catrin Toronto: a Mexican Feast for the Senses

August 2, 2013 by Helen

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beautiful wall art inside el catrin toronto

Entering El Catrin is like stepping into a polychromatic, hallucinatory fantasy. It’s vivid. It’s vast. It’s a vision you won’t forget.

Toronto’s newest Mexican establishment in the historic Distillery District has moved into the space formerly occupied by the Boiler House and has transformed it into an illustrious sphere for the senses. Dark yet vibrant, El Catrin offers a journey of sophisticated intensity.

I had the pleasure of dining there as a belated birthday gift from a friend who suggested the restaurant and promised a radical departure from our usual Neapolitan pizza outings.

From the cobble-stoned path, passersby can get a glimpse of the 5,000 sq. ft. patio, a campfire scene from a far-off destination furnished with canary yellow tables and chairs surrounding an open fire pit.

el catrin patio

night scene on the patio at el catrin restaurant toronto

At the entrance to the dining room, patrons are confronted with an immense, dramatic, floor-to-ceiling mural hand painted by Mexican street artist Oscar Flores and illuminated by black light.

el catrin mexican restaurant-toronto

graffiti art inside el catrin restaurant

wall mural inside el catrin restaurant in the distillery district

 Facing Flores’ artistic masterpiece is the bar and an impressive collection of tequila and mescal.

the bar in el catrin restaurant

Off to the side, across the floor of imported Mexican tiles, is a private dining alcove against an imposing display of fluorescent-coloured skulls.

skulls on display inside el catrin

The second private dining area is located in a loft space above with a brilliant view of the main floor.

El Catrin boasts a voluminous variety of cocktails, wine, over 120 brands of tequila and mescal, and an equally extensive, tapas-style menu. Leading the kitchen is Olivier LeCalvez, one of Mexico City’s top chefs who arrived in Toronto just over a month ago. At El Catrin, he promises both traditional and modern Mexican cuisine.

We were seated at a table under one of the giant lamp shades hanging from the 25-foot ceiling. Kristina, our server, humbly confessed she was new on the job but delivered professional service with a smile throughout our meal, accommodating our request to sample the sangria before ordering a pitcher and ensuring every question we tossed at her was promptly answered after consulting other staff.

Our red wine sangria was perfect for a summer evening, although I suggest asking the bartender to go easy on the ice, which quickly diluted our drinks.

The tapas are accompanied by a trio of salsas, all of which I found to be rather mild, but the ceviche de atún with diced tuna and watermelon offers a sharp dose of spice for those who crave a stronger kick (you can thank the chive and habanero mignonette for that). A luxurious balance between tart and sweet, this ceviche is one succulent seafood cocktail.

distillery district mexican restaurant

From the seafood-rich menu, we also ordered the burrito de langosta: two small flour tortillas filled with lobster, guacamole, lettuce and tomato in a chipotle sauce served with warmth and comfort.

burrito at el catrin mexican restaurant

I was curious to sample the tacos al pastor, a personal favourite, and they didn’t disappoint. The house-made corn tortillas come with well-seasoned shaved pork, chopped onion and chunks of pineapple. I’m convinced LeCalvez is a master at infusing sweetness into the savoury.

tacos al pastor at el catrin mexican restaurant

We also sampled the gringa, a quesadilla version of the tacos al pastor with pastor pork and melted gouda cheese goodness, sandwiched between a flour tortilla. While I preferred the tacos, my friend loved the gringa.

gringa at el catrin

For a creative spin on a traditional staple, the tostada de higado de pato is a flat, crisp tortilla topped with foie gras, poblano and red onion relish, and served with a dollop of mango syrup and pieces of mango. The foie gras was room temperature instead of hot-seared as intended but this union of contrasting flavours and textures was both intriguing and flavourful enough to make up for the lack of warmth.

tostada de higado de pato at el catrin

I’m a lover of Baja fish tacos but sometimes I crave healthier, grilled fish over breaded, deep-fried halibut, which is why we ordered the tacos de pez espada a la parrilla: corn tortillas with marinated and grilled swordfish, black bean puree, topped with guacamole and queso fresco. Had the swordfish not been slightly overcooked and dry, the tacos would have been more memorable but I’ll likely give them another go on another visit.

tacos de pez espada a la parrilla at el catrin mexican restaurant toronto

For the finale, we ordered the dessert sampler platter for two, which included three sugary pleasures from the menu and salted caramel popcorn. The best part? You choose the desserts! The churros were warm, powdered with cinnamon sugar and served with cajeta (caramel), chocolate and strawberry dipping sauces. Our second choice was the capirotada, a Mexican bread pudding with raisins, cotija cheeses and cajeta sauce. It was especially stiff and dense, unlike most bread puddings I’ve had the pleasure of sinking my teeth into. I would much rather dive into the tres leche cake, our third selection. Light and moistened by three types of milk, it was a delectable finish to an overall satisfying meal.

dessert sampler platter at el catrin restaurant

The servings at El Catrin are indeed petite and likely inadequate for some. Cheaper meals and larger portions can be found elsewhere in Toronto’s Mexican eateries but El Catrin is a unique sensory experience worth the extra dollars and at least one visit. With plenty more tapas to taste and the introduction of their brunch menu, you can bet that I’ll be heading back.

El Catrin Destileria Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Comments

  1. Dream Travel Mag (@DreamTravelMag) says

    August 6, 2013 at 7:03 pm

    Wow. Awesome post, will have to check this place out next time I’m in town! BTW your pics are amazing this place looks great!

    • Helen says

      August 6, 2013 at 8:23 pm

      Thanks (although a place like this made the photos much easier to take)! Do check it out!

  2. homeexchanging says

    October 22, 2013 at 3:21 pm

    Will definitely will check it out… it’s about a 15 minute walk from my home!

  3. Natasha says

    March 14, 2014 at 11:43 am

    I love this place! Both times I have been there, the food and the service were excellent. I look forward to going again!

    • Helen Suk says

      March 16, 2014 at 4:37 pm

      Glad you enjoyed it too 🙂

  4. K. says

    July 23, 2015 at 9:28 am

    The place looks great, but food is a joke! Been there twice and tried different things, it is one of the worst places in Toronto for Mexican food. Cheers!

About Helen

Helen Suk

Travel writer. Photographer. Always curious. I search the world for beauty and inspiration while sharing valuable tips to help you plan your next trip.

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