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Head to Hermanus for Whales and Wine

March 11, 2015 by Helen

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misty landscape hermanus

Love whales? Love wine? If you’re heading to South Africa, then nudge Hermanus to the top of your destination list.

I had never heard of this seaside town in the Western Cape, also known as the “Riviera of the South”, until it was suggested to me by two friends during my travel planning. Not only is Hermanus the country’s newest wine route (arguably even more rewarding than Stellenbosch), it’s considered the world’s top destination for land-based whale watching. With its moderate climate year-round and convenient location (just a 90-minute, scenic drive east from Cape Town), it also makes an ideal day trip.

ocean view hermanus

Whale Watching

You’ll need more than a few hours in Hermanus, especially between the months of June and December when large numbers of Southern Right Whales migrate from their feeding grounds in Antarctica to mate and calve in warmer waters. That means easy sightings from the shore’s rocky cliffs, also known as the Cape Whale Coast Route. You can, of course, take a boat tour to get up close to the marine life but here, you don’t have to step off land to witness this show of 80-90 tonne sea giants. To the amazement of visitors, they cruise astonishingly close to the rugged coastline.

two men whale watch on the edge of the ocean in hermanus

For sightings, one simply has to meander along the Cliff Path that snakes 11 km across town or listen for the world’s only beloved whale crier, who sounds his kelp horn to announce the location of whales spottings.

I headed to Seiver’s Punt, which was recommended by locals as the location on the path where I’d have the best chance for a sighting.

But, in the tranquil and soothing hours of the early morning, I was immediately enchanted by the scenic panorama before me: the dramatic, rocky coastline under a veil of morning mist.

misty morning on the edge of the ocean at seiver's punt hermanus

misty landscape of ocean and mountain at seivers punt hermanus

I peered below, and there the colossal cetaceans were, drifting near the cliffs, their black, glistening bodies rolling through the sea. They disappeared under the surface for minutes, then re-emerged, expelling vaporous sprays of ocean water.

Just as I turned to head back to the car, I was alerted by a woman (bless her) to a breaching whale in the distance. As if intuitively sensing the anticipation of its audience, the whale performed this spectacular display of acrobatics multiple times in succession.

To my uncontrollable squeals of delight, I witnessed the sheer power of this behemoth hurl itself into the air and plummet into the ocean in a splashy explosion not once or twice — but three times.

southern right whale breaching in hermanus

Not exactly the shot I was hoping for (thanks to my camera’s slow burst mode), but know it was a lot more dramatic than what this photo shows.

I was in disbelief. Never did I imagine I’d have the extraordinary privilege of watching this rarely seen performance of marine life.

The whale season reaches its climax during the annual Whale Festival in September.

The Wine Route

Wine lovers will experience another treasure of Hermanus: internationally recognized vineyards in a location where the fresh, crisp, “champagne air” brought by the sea’s cool breeze produces unique, high-quality wines. The area is home to over a dozen vineyards, making Hermanus an ideal base for wine tasting tours.

I loved the picturesque, award-winning Creation Wines, where the gorgeous tasting room and outdoor patio are matched by excellent wines (of course), knowledgeable servers, flawless service and innovative cuisine. In fact, it was here where I enjoyed my best meal in South Africa.

view of green rolling hills at creation winery on the hermanus wine route the vineyards at creation wines food pairing with wine at creation winery in hermanus shrimp appetizer at creation wines restaurant in hermanus

Reservations are essential for both wine tastings and wine & food pairings.

Dining

Where else can you whale-watch while dining?

There’s no shortage of restaurants in Hermanus with dining rooms and patios overlooking the ocean (I enjoyed my meals here more than I did in Cape Town). For the most variety, head to the historic Old Harbour for everything from steak to ethnic cuisine and, of course, the town’s specialty: seafood. Don’t forget to ask about the fish of the day.

The Burgundy at the Old Harbour was recommended by staff at my B&B as one of the town’s top restaurants, and my dinner didn’t disappoint. With ingredients sourced from local farmers and wines from the region’s vineyards, The Burgundy offers an extensive, contemporary menu and list of fine South African wines.

For even more eats, be sure to check out the Hermanuspietersfontein Food & Wine Market on Saturday mornings.

Accommodations

From five-star hotels to boutique guesthouses, the accommodation options in Hermanus are varied and, depending on their location and view, even offer whale sightings from their rooms!

In my search for a high-quality but affordable stay, I found 138 Marine Beachfront Guesthouse in Sandbaai, the fastest growing suburb in the Greater Hermanus area with a coastal pathway for meditative walks along the rocky shore and, if you’re lucky, whale spottings.

ocean view at sandbaai hermanus south africa

the shoreline at sandbaai hermanus south africa

exterior of 138 marine beachfront guesthouse

138 Marine Beachfront Guesthouse

Just a five-minute drive from the town centre, this stylish, seaside B&B was impeccable in every way, with the most impressive attention to detail one could ask for in a guesthouse: the subtle floral scents, splendid displays of protea flowers, fabulous breakfasts and a turn-down service that included next day’s weather report, chocolate and a decanter of port.

king protea flower display at 138 marine beachfront guesthouse in hermanus

The King Protea, South Africa’s national flower.

sea oyster room at 138 marine beachfront guesthouse

The Sea Oyster Room.

turndown service with chocolate and a decanter of port at 138 marine beachfront guesthouse hermanus

Turn-down service with style.

138 Marine Beachfront Guesthouse is the only property in Sandbaai that offers a view of the sunset so, with camera in hand, I took advantage of its unique position.

sunset in sandbaai hermanus

scenic view of ocean and mountains in sandbaai hermanus

view of hermanus at twilight with mountains and pink and blue sky

For families and groups, check out Shore’s Edge just down the street: a five-bedroom, beachfront, self-catering property complete with a fireplace and small pool.

But Wait… There’s More

If you don’t make it to Hermanus during whale-watching season, there are plenty of other things to do. Hiking, cycling, bird-watching and golfing are just a few of the activities that can be enjoyed by visitors of all ages.

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things to do in hermanus south africa

Disclosures: I received complimentary accommodations at 138 Marine Beachfront Guesthouse but rest assured all opinions expressed in this post are my own. I  also earn a small commission from Booking.com if you click on their link and make a reservation through their site – at no cost to you. Thank you for your support.

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Comments

  1. Ryan Biddulph says

    March 11, 2015 at 9:55 pm

    Hi Helen,

    Beautiful! I am house sitting a large, villa compound here in Bali with my wife and a South African couple. They were suggesting this region just the other day. Also noted how the wine thing is big in this are too. I know the cost of living is low and the beauty is just about unparalleled in SA. That makes it worth a visit for digital nomads like ourselves. The blue in the country side shot skies is particularly stunning. Reminds me of the most pristine areas we’ve see on earth, in Fiji and in Koh Lanta, too. You can’t re-create it really, and your camera captured the crispness wonderfully. Well done 🙂

    Thanks for the inspiring share Helen!

    Tweeting from Bali.

    Ryan

    • Helen Suk says

      March 14, 2015 at 3:24 am

      Thanks for your comment, Ryan. While Stellenbosch is lovely (I took a wrong turn and ended up driving through it), I’m really glad I chose to stay in Hermanus instead.

  2. Green Global Travel says

    June 28, 2015 at 7:03 pm

    Cool photos! The wine country is stunningly beautiful and getting to observe whales like this in their natural habitat is an awe-inspiring experience. The town of Hermanus looks like it has a rich culture that works in harmony with the gorgeous surrounding environment. Thanks for the post. – Emme

    • Helen Suk says

      June 30, 2015 at 1:54 pm

      Thanks for reading, Emme!

  3. Overberg Info says

    October 23, 2016 at 7:22 am

    So pleased you heard about Hermanus and decided to visit. Hopefully you’ll get to explore the Overberg more on your travels in the future. It is “undeveloped’ compared to Cape Town/Stellenbosch and is great fun to explore. In addition to the Hermanus wine route we also have wine routes in Elgin, Botrivier, Stanford, Elim and Swellendam. Funny how the whales look so small in pictures taken from the shore…the first time I ever saw one I platzed! Happy travelling and we hope to see you in the Overberg soon!

    • Helen says

      November 16, 2016 at 12:34 am

      Thank you for the info! I definitely wish I had more time to visit more wine routes.

About Helen

Helen Suk

Travel writer. Photographer. Always curious. I search the world for beauty and inspiration while sharing valuable tips to help you plan your next trip.

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