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Not Without My Passport

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Highlights of Ireland

October 29, 2013 by Helen

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I may have seen far more rain than sun during my stay in Ireland, but no matter – this island nation shines even through the dark skies and drizzle. I’m sharing the highlights of my visit and, while some might say they’re mostly predictable, the Emerald Isle surprised me too.

The People of Ireland

The Irish tradition of warmth and conviviality is no myth. In defiance against the notion that city dwellers are fated to an impersonal existence, the “Land of a Thousand Welcomes” spirit is omnipresent. It was in the driver on a Dublin bus who scribbled a map for me and my friend to ensure we didn’t lose our way. Or the truck driver in Kerry who was at a full stop and hit the gas pedal only after I snapped my photo of a church from across the road. Or the strangers on the street who thanked me after answering my request for directions.

My encounters with the Irish were endearing, even after they had thrown back a few too many pints. One night after leaving a party, I approached two young Dubliners on a street corner and asked for directions to my hotel. They were smashed. What followed was a wacky, Saturday Night Live skit. There they were, clumsily dressing a near-life-sized, faceless dummy with pants. “What are you guys doing?” It was the only question that could be asked. “You’ll have to excuse him,” one of them replied, pointing at the inanimate figure. “He’s had a bit too much to drink.” I fought the urge to assist. Were the pants the wrong size? Did they need bootcut instead of skinnies? I was so bewildered and entertained by the farce that I didn’t take notice of the directions they gave me.

A rickshaw driver pulled up beside us. Through their Guinness-soaked slurs, the two stooges provided the driver with directions to my hotel and attempted (unsuccessfully) to haggle my ride down to two Euros. I climbed onto the rickshaw and the driver began to pull me away. Then, like Seabiscuit at the races, with the dummy hanging by its half-dressed legs from one of the boys’ necks, they chased after us as they repeatedly hollered to the driver while catching their breath, “C’mon! Twenty Euros! We’ll race you there for 20 Euros!” Despite the driver’s efforts to lose them, within seconds, they had caught up. Dumbfounded by the whole trippy scenario, I asked, “Do you guys need a ride?” They didn’t answer. Next thing I knew, they had disappeared into the night.

Then there was the gregarious, intoxicated character in Killarney who gleefully struck up an animated conversation with me about his home country – but not before he merrily photobombed all my snapshots of the pub behind him, each with a different facial contortion.

ireland travel tips, ireland highlights

The photobomber.

Last but not least, my friend Denise, a native of County Cork and now resident of Dublin, is the personification of the hospitality and vibrant spirit for which Ireland is known the world over.

ireland travel guide

My friend, Denise.

It’s hard to imagine a country friendlier and more cheerful than Ireland.

The Landscapes

Dramatic coastlines and lush, vivid green pastures against mountain backdrops will enchant, even in the fog and shadows of the greyest clouds.

ireland beaches, pictures of ireland

Inch Beach.

places to visit in ireland, ireland landscapes

The Dingle Peninsula.

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Muckross Lake.

ireland highlights, muckross house

Muckross House.

See my photo-rich posts about the Dingle Peninsula and my much-anticipated visit to the Cliffs of Moher for more of Ireland’s scenic landscapes.

The Towns and Villages

Throughout the countryside and along the coast, the picturesque Irish towns and villages of my imagination came to life.

ireland pictures, adare

The village of Adare.

things to see in ireland, visiting ireland

Dingle.

Here, gatherings of folklore, song and dance call for a return to life’s simpler joys and are as colourful as the pubs and shops that line the roads. But make no mistake: while these cultural traditions may celebrate a life of austerity, they’re rooted in long and complex histories.

what to see in ireland, shamrock

Dingle.

All-Ireland Hurling Final

What do you get when you pack over 80,000 people in Dublin’s Croke Park Stadium to watch men dribble a small ball on paddles and furiously tear across a field to the sound of gasps, F-bombs and roaring cheers from excited fans?

Thanks to Denise and her family connections, I found myself at the gripping, final men’s match for one of Ireland’s beloved national sports: hurling. Now I’m not much of a sports fan and I attended the Cork vs. Clare match on the day I arrived on a red-eye without a wink of sleep – but how lucky am I? Immersing myself in a game that ignites the passion of an entire country was a cultural experience few foreigners can say they’ve had. (When I later shared with my guide on a trip to the south that I was in the stadium for the live match, she asked in disbelief, “How did you manage that?”)

No hooliganism. No tense verbal exchanges. Just passion for a unique sport of pure skill and athleticism.

irish pictures, all ireland hurling, sports fans

Friendly rivals: Cork and Clare fans make their way to Croke Park Stadium.

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The game begins!

The Food

That’s right, you read it here: this foodie loved Irish cuisine. It surprised me too.

It helped, of course, to have locals guide me in my search for the country’s best dishes. In fact, I ate so well that I returned home with pants a bit tighter. For the full post on my experience with Irish cuisine, click here.

In Ireland, as in many countries, the most memorable meals are often the simplest. Take, for example, what I can only describe as the gnocchi of Ireland: boxty. Served up at a party with cubed corned beef, these pillowy potato dumplings were proudly presented as “Ireland on a stick”. In my humble opinion, they were the star of the night.

travel ireland, highlights of ireland

Boxty with corned beef.

The overabundance of potatoes admittedly had me craving alternative carbs, but I learned to appreciate them more than I ever have (to learn more, read my post on how Ireland taught me to respect the spud).

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That I almost didn’t book the flight to Dublin is inconceivable. I resisted the call to Ireland for months, and how thankful I am that I finally answered. If I have any regrets at all, it’s that I couldn’t stay longer to get more acquainted with her. But, like a cousin who opens her doors with arms stretched wide even years after your last visit, I know she’d happily have me back.

Disclosure: I travelled through some parts of Ireland with the assistance of Fáilte Ireland (National Tourism Development Authority) but, as always, all opinions expressed in this post are my own.

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  • How Ireland Taught Me to Respect the PotatoHow Ireland Taught Me to Respect the Potato
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Comments

  1. Geek Goddess says

    October 29, 2013 at 10:41 am

    Gorgeous!

    • Helen Suk says

      October 30, 2013 at 9:31 pm

      I agree – it’s a beautiful country 🙂

  2. Kym Pham says

    October 29, 2013 at 11:07 am

    Awww what great memories ! You captured Ireland so well—in words and photos ! Love that I made a little cameo there. 😉 And I adore the stories of the people you met. It reminds me a lot of my own personal encounters there—hilarious, and above all, warm.

    • Helen Suk says

      October 30, 2013 at 9:31 pm

      Thanks, Kym!

  3. Lance says

    October 29, 2013 at 11:08 am

    The Clare-Cork match was epic! I loved reading about your trip!

    • Helen Suk says

      October 30, 2013 at 9:33 pm

      It was fun, wasn’t it?

  4. Mickela Mallozzi (@TravelBareFeet) says

    October 29, 2013 at 11:18 am

    I love this – you truly captured the spirit of Ireland! I miss it already! 🙂

    • Helen Suk says

      October 30, 2013 at 9:33 pm

      Thanks, Mickela! I miss you guys.

  5. Nutmeg says

    October 30, 2013 at 11:37 am

    Nicely done Helen!

    • Helen Suk says

      October 30, 2013 at 9:34 pm

      Thanks, Carolyne 🙂

  6. Danny says

    October 30, 2013 at 1:37 pm

    That week that TBEX was in Dublin marked was after a 15 weeks of hardly any rain. Lol. The great thing is that you still enjoyed the trip. The beautiful scenery in Ireland is still secondary to the people, the food and the craic.

    I feel really great about my home after that post. Tks

    • Helen Suk says

      October 30, 2013 at 9:38 pm

      That’s what everyone told me! We missed that long stretch of sunny weather, but that’s ok. We still had good craic 😉

  7. Barbara says

    November 2, 2013 at 5:04 am

    Hi Helen, it’s Barbara dee’s sister. What a great blog! You really packed a lot into your stay. Glad you enjoyed it. Hopefully the next time you’re over Cork will win the final. It was lovely to meet you. Barbara xxxx

    • Helen Suk says

      November 2, 2013 at 11:17 am

      Hi Barbara! Oh, I so enjoyed spending time with you and Larry as well! Thanks for your help in making my hurling experience happen! And thanks for reading 🙂

  8. The Traveluster says

    November 4, 2013 at 4:07 pm

    I loved the friendly Irish people as well! I honestly think they might be the most fun/friendliest people on the planet! And the landscape! So amazing! Wish I could have caught a hurling match though!

    • Helen Suk says

      November 4, 2013 at 6:23 pm

      I couldn’t agree with you more. Hopefully you can catch a hurling match another time!

      • Exp. Gaelic Games (@expgaelicgames) says

        November 8, 2013 at 6:06 pm

        Helen – So glad you got to the Hurling Final.
        It’s just best experienced than explained!
        For us it’s a bit of a challenge to explain why Gaelic Games mean so much more than sport in Ireland – they speak of the soul of the nation. 3000 years of history playing this warrior sport and now stronger than ever yet hardly known overseas!
        When you’re back in Ireland you’re invited to come and spend some time with us – we do our best to explain that passion to visitors. It’s great fun to learn all about the games but even better fun to play them with us!
        Hope you’re back soon.

      • Helen Suk says

        November 8, 2013 at 10:50 pm

        I admit when Denise suggested we go to the hurling final, my response was “Huh? Curling??” In the end, I was surprised by how much I enjoyed it. Thanks for sharing this info (and the invitation!). After witnessing the game myself and being a part of the energy in that stadium, I understand why hurling is such a beloved sport to the Irish.

  9. Ron | Active Planet Travels says

    November 16, 2013 at 12:12 pm

    It may rain a lot but at least you did get a few sunny days in there to capture just how beautiful it is. I’m sure these pictures don’t even do it justice either! X-D

    • Helen Suk says

      November 16, 2013 at 9:52 pm

      I tried my best to capture the beauty but, yes… one has to visit Ireland to fully appreciate it!

  10. Julie in Provence says

    November 20, 2013 at 3:39 pm

    Helen, what a nice post. You captured so much feeling, so succinctly. Let’s do it all again…that was a fun one!

    • Helen Suk says

      November 20, 2013 at 9:55 pm

      Aw, I miss you! I hope we can reunite in Provence!

About Helen

Helen Suk

Travel writer. Photographer. Always curious. I search the world for beauty and inspiration while sharing valuable tips to help you plan your next trip.

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