• Home
  • About
    • About Helen
    • Features & Published Work
    • Work With Me
    • Contact
  • Destinations
  • Reflections
  • Food
  • Travel Essentials
  • Photo Gear
  • Copyright

Not Without My Passport

A Travel and Photography Blog

Lake Kivu: The Side of Rwanda You Haven’t Seen

September 10, 2015 by Helen

2K Shares
Share
Tweet
Pin2K
Reddit
Email
Flip

paradise malahide

Rwanda is possibly one of the most misunderstood countries in the world. In stark contrast to the grisly stories and shocking images of the 1994 genocide, the Land of a Thousand Hills is now stable and peaceful.

It’s also handsome. Take, for example, this side of Rwanda you likely haven’t seen: the calm of Lake Kivu, the country’s largest body of water and one of Africa’s Great Lakes. Bordering the Democratic Republic of the Congo and Rwanda, it forms part of the Great Rift Valley.

(These photos are a combination of images captured with both my iPhone and DSLR.)

lake kivu africa

rwanda lake kivu

rwanda fishing boats

Unimaginably, bodies were once seen floating in Lake Kivu but, today, it’s an ideal destination for fatigued visitors seeking R&R after tracking mountain gorillas in Volcanoes National Park. Long gone are the hate propaganda and machetes. This lake is now scenic and safe.

Visitors need not be fearful of the volcanic activity below its deep waters either. In 2008, the Rwandan government started extracting methane released from the lake bed not only to prevent a volcanic eruption, but to harness the gas as a source of power in a country where 80% of its homes lack electricity. The potential of the initiative is vast and promising.

I made an overnight visit to Gisenyi, one of three sleepy towns on the edge of Lake Kivu. Just a few hours after my arrival, it lost power, underscoring the importance of the degassing strategy. But I didn’t fret. My camera batteries were fully charged, and let’s get real: if Rwandans can cope with electricity outages on a regular basis with laid-back ease, I could certainly do the same for a mere 20 hours.

Thankfully, though, I didn’t need power to enjoy the lake’s palm-fringed beaches, like this narrow stretch of golden sand with thatch-roof umbrellas at my guesthouse, Paradis Malahide.

Pin this post to Pinterest

lake kivu

It also didn’t prevent me from hiring a moto taxi to explore the town and nearby public beaches.

moto moto rwanda

Local transportation: moto taxis.

gisenyi rwanda

And I didn’t need electricity the following morning to hear the choir of local fishermen as they sailed across Lake Kivu on traditional Rwandan boats, singing a harmonious hymn for, perhaps, an abundant catch.

kivu lake

Unfazed by the loss of power, the kitchen staff at the guesthouse continued to serve meals in the restaurant. This was breakfast: hearty, delicious and beautifully presented.

paradise malahide breakfast

Of course, the best way to experience Lake Kivu is by boat — and I didn’t need electricity for that either. I sailed past the many islands that dot the lake, and watched rural Rwanda come alive.

lake rwanda

rwanda tourism, lake kivu

rwanda fishing

lake kivu rwanda

rwanda country

rwandan fisherman

travel to rwanda, lake kivu

Gisenyi, lake kivu, rwanda

rwanda lake

rwanda boat, lake kivu

But just as striking as Lake Kivu are the sweeping panoramas of picturesque, green-terraced hills that surround it, making the drive to and from Gisenyi rewarding in itself.

rwanda

rwanda travel

rwanda africa

So Gisenyi didn’t provide me with the luxury of power for most of my stay on Lake Kivu.

But my experience was just as enchanting without it.

What You Should Know About Lake Kivu:

  • Gisenyi is 1-1.5 hours from Musanze (the town that serves as the gateway for gorilla treks in Volcanoes National Park), and 3-3.5 hours from Kigali.
  • Although a sleepy backwater, Gisenyi is the most developed of the three major towns on Lake Kivu (the other two are Kibuye and Cyangugu).
  • If you use the service of a moto taxi (a.k.a. moto moto or boda boda), helmets are required by law. Your driver will provide you with one. You may want to wash your hair immediately after though (you can imagine how many people have worn them). Also, several locals cautioned me against riding moto taxis at night, perhaps because of the blackout, which would make accidents more likely.
  • Beware of the mosquitoes. Rwanda is in a malaria zone, so be sure to pack your insect repellent and anti-malarial medication.

Have you been to Lake Kivu? If not, do these images surprise you?

If you’re planning a trip to Gisenyi, you can check options for accommodations at Booking.com here. If you click on this link and make a reservation, I’ll earn a small commission – at no cost to you. Thank you for your support!

You Might Also Like:

  • Rwanda Gorilla Trekking: A Wildlife Experience Worth Every PennyRwanda Gorilla Trekking: A Wildlife Experience Worth Every Penny
  • Uganda in PhotosUganda in Photos
  • Lake Bunyonyi: A Natural Wonder of the World?Lake Bunyonyi: A Natural Wonder of the World?
  • A Visit to the Kigali Genocide MemorialA Visit to the Kigali Genocide Memorial
  • Galapagos Islands: Santa Cruz IslandGalapagos Islands: Santa Cruz Island
2K Shares
Share
Tweet
Pin2K
Reddit
Email
Flip

Enjoyed this post? Don't miss the next one!

Sign up to have new posts delivered straight to your inbox plus my FREE, 45-page ebook, Tips to Take Your Mobile Photography From Ordinary to Extraordinary.

Comments

  1. Nicole says

    October 7, 2015 at 10:56 am

    Beautiful pictures! Thank you for sharing! They show Rwanda as beautiful as it is 🙂

    • Helen Suk says

      October 31, 2015 at 3:28 pm

      Thanks, Nicole. I think Rwanda is a very underrated country.

About Helen

Helen Suk

Travel writer. Photographer. Always curious. I search the world for beauty and inspiration while sharing valuable tips to help you plan your next trip.

Read more »

Let’s Get Social

  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • Pinterest
  • RSS
  • Twitter
  • YouTube

As Seen On

Reader Favourites

  • japanese cherry blossoms at ryoanji temple in kyoto The Meaning of Cherry Blossoms in Japan: Life, Death and Renewal
  • golden sand on outlet beach at sandbanks provincial park Things to Do in Prince Edward County
  • kennedy lake, nanaimo to tofino, road trip canada Great Canadian Road Trip: Nanaimo to Tofino
  • best bali beaches, padang padang Where are the Dream Beaches in Bali?
  • victoria harbour, victoria bc parliament building, victoria bc 48 Hours in Victoria, BC

Mobile Photography on Instagram

Helen Suk

notwithoutmypassport

During a family visit to North Carolina, we spent During a family visit to North Carolina, we spent an afternoon digging the vibes and art murals in Winston-Salem. The artists here have some serious street cred. 💯

#streetart #winstonsalem #graffitiart #northcarolinaart
It was a perfect day for wine tasting in Niagara-o It was a perfect day for wine tasting in Niagara-on-the-Lake.🍷

#visitniagara #niagaraonthelake #niagaraonthelakewinery #ontariowineries #discoveron
Have you experienced @littlecanada? This exhibit s Have you experienced @littlecanada? This exhibit surpassed all my expectations.

.⁠
.⁠
.⁠
.⁠
.⁠
#miniatureworld #miniatures #explorecanada #discoveron #enjoycanada #tourcanada #thankyoucanada #canadaday
🌸 It’s one of my favourite times of the year. 🌸 It’s one of my favourite times of the year. Cherry blossoms are in full bloom, and they’re here in Hamilton. These delicate flowers are rich in symbolism in Asian countries like Japan. Don’t wait to take in their beauty - it won’t last long.
.⁠
.⁠
.⁠
.⁠
#cherryblossoms #sakura #hanami #bayfrontpark #HamOnt #MyHamilton #HamiltonOntario #TheHammer #SteelTown #HamiltonProud #CityofHamilton#TourismHamilton #ExploreHamilton #WhatUpHamilton #HamiltonPhotography #HamiltonPhotographer #discoveron
An artist’s haven. .⁠ .⁠ .⁠ .⁠ #doorsope An artist’s haven.
.⁠
.⁠
.⁠
.⁠
#doorsopenhamilton #millworks #millworkscreative #dundasont #dundasontario #dundason #HamOnt #MyHamilton #HamiltonOntario #TheHammer #SteelTown #HamiltonProud #CityofHamilton#TourismHamilton #ExploreHamilton #WhatUpHamilton #HamiltonPhotography #HamiltonPhotographer #discoveron #explorecanada #enjoycanada
Checked out this cool studio for #DoorsOpenHamilto Checked out this cool studio for #DoorsOpenHamilton. 
.⁠
.⁠
.⁠
.⁠
#millworks #millworkscreative #dundasont #dundasontario #dundason #HamOnt #MyHamilton #HamiltonOntario #TheHammer #SteelTown #HamiltonProud #CityofHamilton #TourismHamilton #ExploreHamilton #WhatUpHamilton #HamiltonPhotography #HamiltonPhotographer #DiscoverON #ontarioforyou
#explorecanada #enjoycanada  #oh_canada_
That time I learned Lake Huron is THIS blue. That time I learned Lake Huron is THIS blue.
Hello, Hess Village. You’re cute. .⁠ .⁠ .⁠ Hello, Hess Village. You’re cute.
.⁠
.⁠
.⁠
.⁠
.⁠
#electricdinerhamont #HessVillage #HamOnt #MyHamilton #HamiltonOntario #TheHammer #SteelTown #HamiltonProud #CityofHamilton #ExploreHamilton #discoverON #explorecanada
SO ELATED that @trueshotcoffeeco has re-opened. Fo SO ELATED that @trueshotcoffeeco has re-opened. Folks: this is where you go for the best coffee in Hamilton! 🙌🏼
Follow Me on Instagram
Booking.com

Search This Site

Copyright © 2025 · Not Without My Passport