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Not Without My Passport

A Travel and Photography Blog

Get Lost and Other Things to Do in Stone Town

December 28, 2014 by Helen

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stone town

Stone Town isn’t just any town. It is a sensory experience not to be found anywhere else in the world.

Of course, the beaches in Zanzibar are ravishing, but this UNESCO World Heritage Site in Zanzibar City, once a flourishing trading hub, utterly captivated me: the history and melting pot of African, Arab, Indian and European cultures; the vivid shades of every colour imaginable; the textures; the vibrant energy of the seafront and markets; and the locals who greeted me with “jambo!” (hello) and “karibu” (welcome) everyday.

But I hope you experience this all for yourself. And to help you, I’ve written this list of things to do in Stone Town, a guide to everything that made me fall in love with the place (also see this post for visual inspiration). Further down the page, you’ll also find a couple suggestions for accommodations.

DO:

1) Wander the maze of winding roads and alleyways

Stone Town can easily be explored on foot. Watch it come alive with historical, multi-story buildings; bright textiles; giggling schoolchildren scurrying across courtyards; and social activity on baraza benches where locals gather throughout the day.

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things to do in stone town

If you find yourself lost, the locals won’t hesitate to guide you. I usually asked for directions to the seafront since I always knew how to return to my hotel from there.

2) Explore the grand architecture

The buildings, most of which date back to the nineteenth century, have stories to tell. And they’re a feast for the eyes, despite their deteriorating condition (I came upon the rubble of one that collapsed while I was there; thankfully, there were no casualties). It’s hard not to see the urban decay as part of the town’s charm. 

stone town, stone town architecture, zanzibar

stonetown, zanzibar

Some of the most important structures, however, have been transformed into hotels and museums. Look for the tall, white walls of elegant Arab mansions (with an average thickness of 40-60 cm to maintain cool temperatures inside); the romantic, latticed balconies carved out of wood by Indian craftsmen (which create beautiful shadows mid-day); and stained-glass windows in a kaleidoscope of colours.

3) Admire the famous Zanzibari doors

You won’t find these giant wooden masterpieces anywhere else in the world. Elaborately carved with astonishing detail, the heavy doors in Stone Town are quintessentially Zanzibar, and served as a valuable glimpse into the homeowner’s place of origin, profession and economic status. The Gujarati doors were crafted by skilled Indian tradesmen out of imported teak. The large brass studs have their origins in India, where they were once used as a defence against charging war elephants. In Stone Town, however, they were used only as decorative pieces and symbolic markers of wealth.

indian door, stone town, zanzibar door

zanzibar door

zanzibari door

Arab doors have intricately crafted frames with Arabic inscriptions at the top. The chain, lotus and pineapple are common and culturally significant motifs.

arabic door, zanzibar

For more on the magnificent Zanzibari doors, I recommend this article from the Stone Town Heritage Society.

4) Visit the former slave market

Zanzibar has a more sinister claim to fame: the archipelago was a main slave-trading port in East Africa. For a deeper understanding of this dark chapter in its history, don’t miss the location of the world’s last open slave market, a deeply significant site where the Anglican Cathedral now stands as a symbolic triumph over inhumanity. 

slave market, stone town

anglican cathedral, slave market, stone town

stone town slave market, zanzibar

Started by the Portuguese, the slave trade in Zanzibar reached its zenith with the Omani sultanate until it was outlawed by the British in 1873, thanks to the anti-slavery campaign led by the famous Scottish explorer, David Livingstone, who stayed in Zanzibar before his final expedition. Slaves from the African interior were transported here, where they were whipped and sold, then shipped off to the Middle East and as far as North America.

The entrance fee is 7000 TSh. You’ll also find guides waiting at the door — pay them a tip in exchange for a brief tour. It’s worth it.

5) Meander through Darajani Market

Located near the Slave Market, this bazaar frequented by mostly locals is a riot of noise and colour, with everything from pans and traditional kangas to raw meat and local produce from all over the island.

darajani market, stone town meat market, darajani market, stone town

6) Stroll along the seafront

The beach and seawall burst with life in the late afternoon and into the evening. School boys splash about in the water, leap into the ocean from the seawall, test their acrobatic skills with backflips and capoeira kicks on the beach, and challenge each other to games of soccer. 

stonetown, waterfront, zanzibar stone town seafront, things to do in stone town capoeira, stone town, zanzibar

The vibe is lively and entertaining. I loved being there.

Here’s a short video that captures the energy of the waterfront:

7) Visit the Old Fort

This large fortification on the waterfront was built by the Omani Arabs in the early eighteenth century as a defence against the Portuguese. By the nineteenth century, it was a prison where criminals were executed.

old fort, stone town

Today, its functions are more civil. Inside, you’ll find shops, a restaurant, cultural centre, and an open-air theatre that serves as the location for musical performances and the Zanzibar International Film Festival. 

8) Don’t visit the House of Wonders

At least not yet. As of writing, the tallest and largest building in Stone Town is closed for renovations and there’s no telling when they’ll be complete, but you’re free to admire its exterior. Built in 1883 by Sultan Barghash as a ceremonial palace, this landmark structure includes a clock tower, large steel columns and some of the largest carved doors in Zanzibar (the massive door at the entrance is said to have been built wide enough for the sultan to pass through on an elephant!). 

house of wonders, zanzibar architecture house of wonders, zanzibar door, stone town

Why was the building called like a David Copperfield chamber? The story goes that the House of Wonders was given its name because it was the first house in Zanzibar to have electricity, running water and an elevator.

9) Visit the Palace Museum

This huge white palace was also erected in 1883, right next to the House of Wonders, but in Omani style. For 5,000 TSh, you can take a peek into the extravagant, domestic life of the sultanate. 

palace museum, stone town

palace museum, stone town

The artifacts, photos and opulent furniture are interesting, but the room devoted to Princess Salme, daughter of Seyyid Said who fled Zanzibar after falling in love with and marrying a German merchant, is especially intriguing.

10) Visit the Old Dispensary 

Continue northeast along the seafront and you won’t miss this four-story structure across from the ferry terminal, widely considered to display the most magnificent balconies in Stone Town. 

old dispensary, stone town architecture, things to do in stone town

Commissioned by an affluent Indian, this building of ornate balconies and stained glass windows dates back to 1894 when it served as a charitable hospitable for the poor. Inside, you’ll find a shop and travel agency on the ground floor. Entrance is free.

11) Stop by Jaw’s Corner

For a glimpse into everyday life, search out this square in the maze of Stone Town, where men gather to sip Arabic coffee, talk politics and play board games. It’s a hub of social activity in the morning and afternoons.

jaws corner, stone town

12) Visit Mercury House and Mercury’s

The British songwriter, entertainer and powerful lead vocalist of Queen was born in Stone Town to a middle-class family of Persian descent and Zoroastrian faith. He spent his first years here before getting sent off to school in India. The place he once called home is located in the same building as Zanzibar Gallery on Kenyatta Road. 

mercury house, stone town, freddie mercury

There isn’t much to see except a door and plaque that reads “Mercury House” above it, but it’s on a main road and, chances are, you’ll pass it at least once during your visit anyway.

There’s also a restaurant called Mercury’s on the waterfront that honours the singer.

mercury's restaurant, stone town, stone town restaurants

13) Shop

The streets are lined with shopkeepers and vendors selling everything from spices and t-shirts to solid-wood carvings and chests. For women, Aladdin pants, dresses, sarongs and jewellery are popular items. Hone your haggling skills.

zanzibar shopping, stone town

stone town shopping

14) Forodhani Gardens

Vendors at this colourful, seaside food market in front of the Old Fort fill their tables every evening. By nightfall, it’s buzzing with activity as hungry locals and tourists flock to the Zanzibar pizza stalls and huge array of mostly seafood illuminated by oil lamps. 

forodhani gardens, stone town, zanzibar

If not for the food, go at least for the people-watching. (Read my tips for what and where to eat in Stone Town — and how to avoid food poisoning.)

15) Pay homage to David Livingstone 

David Livingstone died in Zambia but it was in Zanzibar where the influential abolitionist crusader mounted his anti-slavery campaign. It was also where he started and ended his explorations of Africa. This building on the waterfront is where he lived before embarking on his final expedition to discover the source of the Nile. Today, it’s Livingstone Beach Restaurant.

livingstone house, stone town, zanzibar, david livingstone home livingstone beach restaurant, stone town, zanzibar

16) Visit St. Joseph Cathedral

Built by French missionaries in 1898, this cathedral in Baghani still holds regular service for Stone Town’s Catholic community. In fact, it was designed by the same French architect who designed the Notre Dame Basilica in Marseilles, France. Be warned: although the tall twin spires are a defining feature of both the cathedral and the Stone Town skyline, the building can still be difficult to find.

17) Experience a sunset dhow cruise

Dhows, traditional wooden sailing vessels, were used by Arab traders over centuries as they travelled across the Indian Ocean to the Swahili Coast in East Africa. They can be small, one-man fishing boats with makeshift sails, or larger, two-level boats for foreigners. It’s a tourist trap, sure, but I can’t think of a better way to take in the Zanzibari sunset than on one of these timeless boats under a white sail. 

sunset dhow cruise, stone town, zanzibar dhow boat, dhow cruise, stone town

I paid 34,000 TSh for a two-man crew and what turned out to be a private cruise when the other passengers on my dhow cancelled at the last minute.

18) Watch the sun set from Africa House Hotel

On land, most hotels in Stone Town offer a rooftop terrace for sunset viewing, but Africa House Hotel was recommended to me by several locals for its ideal, seafront location and perfect view of sailing dhow boats below. 

africa house hotel, sunset, stone town

It’s a splendid outdoor space if you don’t mind dance music and North American cocktail prices.

19) Hamamni Persian Bath

Commissioned by Sultan Barghash bin Said and built in 1880 in Persian style, this was the first public bath in Zanzibar. Given the entrance fee, however, it was only accessible to the wealthy. It’s no longer in operation, the tubs are dried up and could use some restoration work, but for 1 USD, you can explore the rooms and imagine the social elite gossiping and bathing in a steamy setting.

hamamni persian bath, stone town

 It sits in the middle of town so it’s a challenge to find. Just ask someone to point you in the right direction.

20) Join a spice tour

The famous spice plantations are as much of a tourist trap as the dhow cruises, but they’re fascinating and educational for foodies, chefs and anyone who loves to cook. Influenced by the Arabs, Indians and Persians, the Zanzibar archipelago is called the “Spice Islands” for a reason. Spice plantations can be found everywhere. Have you ever wondered what some of your favourite spices look like in their natural form or how they’re harvested? You’ll find out on one of these tours. Cloves are king in Zanzibar, followed by cinnamon, nutmeg and black pepper. Most surprising is the nutmeg, which looks like a Christmas tree ornament encased in a shell.

zanzibar spice tour, spice farm, nutmeg

Nutmeg

spice farm, zanzibar, black pepper

Black pepper

21) Take a half-day trip to Prison (Changuu) Island

If you can get past the odd combination of pleasure and shades of despair, this popular trip could make for an interesting morning. After a 30-minute boat ride, you’ll be led through a park where you can get up close to a colony of rare Aldabra giant tortoises (thought to have been brought to Zanzibar from the Seychelles), the grounds of what used to be a place of punishment for unruly slaves and quarantine for yellow fever patients, and the surrounding reefs for a snorkelling adventure. 

prison island, zanzibar giant tortoise, zanzibar, prison island

The quality of these tours can vary widely — mine was poorly organized and led by unprofessional guides, but that’s not to say yours will be. When making payment (mine was 15 USD), confirm whether the tour includes snorkelling equipment to avoid surprises. Also keep in mind that most, if not all, the group tours to Prison Island depart around 9am. For a calmer experience, consider paying for a private excursion in the afternoon after the morning crowds have disappeared. As for the snorkelling, it was underwhelming — it’s clear the reefs are not well protected. Chumbe Island is by far a superior snorkelling destination.

22) Snorkel at Chumbe Island

This is the top snorkelling destination in Zanzibar and, some would argue, all of East Africa. The reef sanctuary at Chumbe Island is a famous private nature reserve with 200 species of both coral and fish, a giant underwater garden so pristine and well-protected that diving is not allowed and a permit is required to snorkel. Researchers from every corner of the world travel to the island to study the delicate ecosystem. The diversity, colours and size of the tropical fish are spectacular. 

chumbe island, zanzibar snorkeling zanzibar, chumbe island

It’s a full-day trip but the snorkelling is only for 1 1/2 hours; the rest of the day is spent on a forest walk and at the impressive, seven-bungalow eco-lodge where you’ll learn more about the conservation project and indulge in a delicious lunch.

chumbe island coral park, chumbe island ecolodge, zanzibar hotels

Book the trip from one of the travel agencies in Stone Town in advance (only 14 spots are available on each tour). Cost is about 110 USD.

Other day trips you may want to consider: Mnemba Atoll is another top snorkelling site in Zanzibar, second only to Chumbe Island, but it’s located on the other side of the island so it will take a one-hour drive and a 20-minute boat ride to get there (read about my excursion to Mnemba here). You can also visit Bawe Island, Grave (Chapwani) Island and Nyange — none of which I experienced myself but you can find more info on each one at one of the many travel agencies in town.

With respect to group tours, it’s strongly advised to arrange them through a travel agency instead of people who approach you on the street. Remember to also have small bills on hand for tips.

STAY:

From budget accommodations to the luxurious, there’s no shortage of hotels in Stone Town, and many of them have their own, unique character.

Dhow Palace Hotel

I found this hotel in the town centre a great mid-range option. Not only did I have a comfortable stay, I love how the elegant building, once a stately home, breathes history. In fact, Dhow Palace Hotel dates all the way back to 1559 A.D. when it was first owned by Sheikh Mushin bin Mujbia and passed on to his descendants for three centuries.

dhow palace hotel, stone town hotels, zanzibar hotels zanzibar hotels, dhow palace hotel stone town hotels, dhow palace hotel

The buffet breakfast is hearty, and the pool in the inner courtyard refreshing after a sweltering afternoon of sightseeing. Rates start at 85 USD for a single room and 120 USD for a double.

Jafferji House & Spa

For a more indulgent experience, this romantic, richly decorated, antique-filled palace is what Zanzibar dreams are made of. Jafferji House & Spa is a luxury, boutique hotel lovingly restored by renowned East African photographer, Javed Jafferji, who once used the building as his family home. It’s fitting then that his photographic work fills the walls, providing visual inspiration around every corner among the elaborately carved wooden balconies and furniture.

jafferji house zanzibar, stone town hotels stone town hotels, jafferji house zanzibar luxury hotel, stone town hotels

No two suites are alike, and some are even designed to reflect the legacies of Zanzibar’s most famous historical figures, like David Livingstone and Freddie Mercury. Rates start at around 196 USD.

If you’ve been to Stone Town, were you as taken by it as much as I was?

Disclosures: I received a media discount for my stays at both the Dhow Palace Hotel and Jafferji House & Spa but rest assured the opinions expressed in this post are entirely my own. I also earn a small commission from Booking.com if you click on one of their links and make a reservation through their site – at no cost to you. Thank you for your support.

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Comments

  1. Susan Ahmad says

    February 23, 2016 at 4:47 am

    We are going on safari in June July and was debating a visit to Zanzibar.Agent was very keen for us to d a 1000dollar a night spa trip.Thanks for posting this amazing article.You definitely convinced me what the best choice was.Regards Susan Ahmad.

    • Helen says

      March 15, 2016 at 3:51 am

      Hi Susan! SO sorry for the delayed reply. A $1000/night spa trip? I can’t even imagine where that would be and what it would involve – gold-plated slippers, maybe? Anyway, I can’t speak for everyone who visits Stone Town, but it’s still my favourite travel destination in the world.

  2. Tanya says

    June 29, 2016 at 2:01 am

    Zanzibar is the WORST place I have EVER visited! I’ve been all over the world-thanks , but no thanks! These photos are very misleading..

    • Helen says

      July 11, 2016 at 9:57 am

      Hi Tanya. Your comment doesn’t explain what made Stone Town the “worst” place you’ve visited. Our perceptions are subjective, of course, so I understand why it wouldn’t be for everyone. I loved it there – sorry you didn’t.

    • meg says

      July 25, 2016 at 2:52 am

      Wow, I was going to book 4 nights accommodation in Zanzibar with my husband and 2 teenagers july next year. i thought Zanzibar was meant to be amazing… Can someone please recommend an alternative seaside short stay near there as our safari ends in Stone Town.

      • Helen says

        July 26, 2016 at 8:15 pm

        Zanzibar IS amazing but that’s just my opinion. I suggest searching for accommodations in Nungwi and Kiwengwa (I stayed in both areas). There are other seaside resorts on the island, of course, but I didn’t travel to other areas.

      • Jamie says

        July 26, 2016 at 11:25 pm

        Hi Meg,

        I am from the US, but I live on Zanzibar and think that you will love the island. Nungwi (Northern tip of the island) is a nice area with great resorts, yet still has a village feel. There is a really beautiful resort called Sea Cliff with all of the modern amenities and we have always been met with kindness with their staff. Stone Town is a fun experience and you will experience different cultures in every shop. Seeing as you will be going in July, the weather will be WONDERFUL! I hope that you fall in love with our island as we have. Most people are extremely kind and gracious and extremely leader to help you if you need it.

  3. EPG says

    July 26, 2016 at 4:17 pm

    In response to Tanya’s bewildering comment (and in case someone lets it put them off!): these photos are not misleading at all. I visited Zanzibar last September and absolutely loved it. Stone Town is beautiful and brimming with history and culture, These photos gave me such a sense of longing to go back and see it all again; they look exactly how I remember the town and capture the light and colours perfectly. Amazingly, I actually remember seeing every one of those doors from the article – they’re not easily forgotten! I had a wonderful, friendly man guiding me and I really appreciated all of his knowledge about Stone Town (as I love to learn when I go abroad!) – he had never left the island before, and his passion about his home really shone through. I was always in good hands with the people of Tanzania and Zanzibar and I don’t think I could have stopped smiling even if I tried (and I was limping around in pain after climbing Kilimanjaro – still smiling and getting thousands of smiles back)

    Thank you for the beautiful pictures! I will go and flick through my own now to reminisce.

    • Helen says

      July 26, 2016 at 8:24 pm

      Thanks for the comment! Stone Town certainly isn’t for everyone but I just can’t imagine why someone would hate it. As in most places, travellers should keep an eye on their valuables and avoid locals who try to sell tours on the streets but I didn’t have any problems and never felt unsafe even as a solo female traveller. In fact, I still tell people that Zanzibar is my favourite travel destination in the world. 🙂

  4. Meg says

    July 26, 2016 at 8:48 pm

    Thanks so much for setting my mind at ease. After doing a safari I really wanted to have a few days on a lovely beach and also a small town to explore before we leave for the fast pace of Dudai. We will definitely stick with Zanzibar northern beach and stone town ??

    • Helen says

      August 10, 2016 at 1:12 am

      Have a fabulous time and safe travels, Meg!

  5. meg says

    July 28, 2016 at 12:12 am

    Hi Jamie
    Thanks for the tip. I just looked up Sea Cliff but it looks as though its blocked out for July 2016.. Must say it looks amazing. It may just be too far away to be able to book now. If you have any other suggestions for accom, I would be hugely appreciative.
    Kindest
    Meg

  6. Alice says

    September 2, 2016 at 4:15 am

    I’m in Stone Town right now. Am lying in a wonderfully comfortable bed in Dhow Palace hotel. It is a great mid-range option with spacious rooms and friendly staff. The breakfast is very average but otherwise we have had a fantastic experience. Stone Town is one of the most beautiful places I have ever visited. Tanya is entitled to her opinion but I disagree entirely. I would recommend this city to anyone interested in history, architecture and unusual culture.

    • Helen says

      September 2, 2016 at 10:38 pm

      Couldn’t agree with you more, Alice. Of course, one would probably have to have an interest in history, culture and architecture to truly appreciate Stone Town. I’m so glad you’re enjoying your time there!

  7. Marianne says

    September 6, 2016 at 6:03 am

    Can someone help me with what to wear as a women visiting Zanzibar in a few weeks time?

    Many thanks

  8. Jill says

    November 22, 2016 at 3:09 am

    I enjoyed reading your post and loved your photos. I just arrived in Stone Town last night and staying at the Dhow Palace. My agent booked me in (and funny since I’m a ship captain- I loved seeing the nautical decorations everywhere). The hotel is really beautiful and so much history.
    I’m looking forward to exploring and hoping I don’t get into too much trouble for wearing shorts! HAD to do laundry after a week long safari on the mainland.

    • Helen says

      December 12, 2016 at 12:14 am

      Hi Jill! Apologies for the delayed reply. Thanks for your comment. As you already know, I just adore Stone Town – so much history and beautiful architecture. It’s also a great place to visit after a safari. I hope you had an amazing time!

  9. Tom says

    December 15, 2016 at 6:34 pm

    Hi – beautiful photos of Zanzibar and really loved getting ideas for my visit in February. One question – how do locals react to the camera when you take photos? I’ve been all over the world and know some places people don’t mind and in others taking out a camera can be frowned upon or even cause people to become upset.

    Thanks!

    • Helen says

      January 2, 2017 at 2:46 pm

      Hi Tom. It’s always best practice to ask before taking a photo, especially of children, no matter where you go. Sometimes that’s hard to do when you’re taking a photo of a scene with people in it, in which case, be respectful if they react negatively. Hope that helps!

  10. Zoe says

    January 3, 2017 at 8:34 pm

    Thanks for his great post! A couple years ago I spent 3 months in stone town while doing a rotation at their “one coconut” hospital, I absolutely loved the place. There is so much to discover and a wide diversity of things to do that will please everyone (culture, nature, eating, shopping etc). But the best was to get to know the locals and learn their ways. I would definitely suggest dressing conservatively, (sleeves to elbows and shorts/skirts below the knee) we saw girls visiting for a couple days wearing bikini tops and shorts and while the locals never said anything, it felt like they were culturally insensitive.
    Have fun visiting this awesome place!

  11. Mabel says

    February 15, 2017 at 8:31 pm

    Hello Helen, I was born in Zanzibar, in the early 40s and now live in Trinidad. I absolutely love the photos.. If and when you meet a Zanzibari living abroad, you will see the passion in their eyes whenever Zanzibar is mentioned. Your photos took me down memory lane. One of the photos with the carved door is next door to where I lived in Shangani. It is a pity that among the photos there isn’t one of my school St Joseph’s Convent school.. It has been renamed Tumekuja school. . I am going to post this link on the the school’s forum.
    Best wishes

    • Helen says

      February 16, 2017 at 11:36 pm

      Thank you for the compliment and stopping by, Mabel! I’m glad I was able to take you down memory lane. I was completely enamoured by the Zanzibari doors but, unfortunately, I don’t recall seeing your school.

  12. piwi says

    March 4, 2017 at 5:59 am

    Dear Helen , some things you are writing are not correct . Am owning a house on the island and visiting it for some 30 years nows , long time before tourism industry landed there . In fact that industry was not interested in this beautiful island , just because it’s moslim country . The very firts big hotel on the fantastic east-coast was only built in 1999 ( Blue Bay ) . Mercurey’s restaurant used to be a common dirty pizzeria , a smart local guy bought it and gave it the name ” Mercurey ” . Mercury did not live in the described Mercureys house , but some 100 m further is a small street . Its a smart guy and photographer who placed that mark ” Mercury’s house ” , just on the front of his own shop ….commercially seen ….a big hit ….

    • Helen says

      March 5, 2017 at 10:11 pm

      Hi Piwi. Thanks for commenting! I know the history of Mercury’s restaurant has no direct connection to Freddie Mercury himself. As for Mercury House, are you saying he didn’t live there at all? That his actual home was 100m from there? Can you cite a source?

About Helen

Helen Suk

Travel writer. Photographer. Always curious. I search the world for beauty and inspiration while sharing valuable tips to help you plan your next trip.

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#electricdinerhamont #HessVillage #HamOnt #MyHamilton #HamiltonOntario #TheHammer #SteelTown #HamiltonProud #CityofHamilton #ExploreHamilton #discoverON #explorecanada
SO ELATED that @trueshotcoffeeco has re-opened. Fo SO ELATED that @trueshotcoffeeco has re-opened. Folks: this is where you go for the best coffee in Hamilton! 🙌🏼
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